Born into a farming family in rural Ireland, goldsmith Nigel O'Reilly is one of the great talents to emerge in fine jewelery over the past decade, with a career unlike any of his peers. .
“I had no interest in college because I was diagnosed with severe dyslexia when I was young,” O'Reilly says.
Instead, he chose to get a job and apprenticed as an engineer, where he created molds for vascular surgery and honed his technical skills.
As O'Reilly says, it was love that led him to make the leap from engineering to jewelry.
“I met an art student named Tracy, who is now my wife, and she introduced me to the world of creativity. I started making rings to impress her and she With some encouragement, I decided to leave the engineering world and pursue it full-time. You never know where life will take you,” he says.
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O'Reilly, the son of a teacher and a farmer, never thought of entering the world of professional jewellery, but eventually made the fateful decision to enroll in jewelery making classes through the Design and Crafts Council of Ireland. I put it down.
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“Suddenly, I wasn't the worst in the room, I was one of the best. It's important to know that there are many different paths to life, and some that you wouldn't even consider,” he said. says.
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O'Reilly trained with the late goldsmiths Rudolf Heltzel and Erwin Springbrunn and went on to work for several jewelry houses including Van Cleef, Stephen Webster, Boodles, Garrard, and Fabergé. .
Despite taking the world of jewelery by storm, O'Reilly became the first Irish goldsmith to sell at Sotheby's in New York in 2020 and was the subject of a solo exhibition at Sotheby's in Los Angeles at the end of 2022. , chose to remain based there. We are far from the world's best showrooms and auction houses.
Just before the COVID-19 pandemic, after years of honing his skills, he set up a studio and shop in his native Western Ireland, where his work has graced stars such as Saoirse Ronan and Julianne Moore. draws on connections from childhood. It naturally incorporates shapes and forms based on medieval jewelry and Gaelic imagery.
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“Having a studio in County Mayo gives me the freedom to be creative, and it also gives me freedom that I didn't have to move around with for years. Especially after our first child was born, my wife and I felt like everything was… “I felt a strong need to return to my hometown where I felt comfortable,” he says.
This comfort gave O'Reilly the freedom to be creative and the opportunity to create a piece, spend months on it, and not have to constantly worry about having to sell it.
“It allows me to focus on the art and creativity of jewelry as opposed to constantly filling orders and keeping a store running in a busy city. That’s never what I want to do…just focus on the art.” I want to,” he says.
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In recent years, O'Reilly has been working on further projects, most notably the recently launched Aberfeldy collection. This is his 7-piece capsule collection inspired by his single malt Scotch whiskies, celebrating his 125th anniversary.
“Whether it's high jewelery or fine whisky, an incredible amount of time, craftsmanship and care goes into its production,” he says.
Items in the collection, which includes 18-karat gold pieces with unique elements such as whiskey-colored Madeira citrine gemstones and ice-blue diamonds, retail from US$38,750 to US$336,000.
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The jeweler has a busy year ahead, with shows alongside Sotheby's and Bergdorf Goodman.
“We're also planning an exhibition in Hong Kong, so there's going to be a lot of creative work and a lot of exciting things to look forward to this year,” he says.
O'Reilly, 42, recently said: Penta From his home in County Mayo, Ireland, where he lives with his wife and children.
Penta: How does your approach fit into the current state of fine jewelry design?
Nigel O'Reilly: What I try to do is show people that there is more to the world of jewelry than just halo gems. I don't think this is something that the customer should address, but something that designers and jewelers should take responsibility for themselves. They have to push the boundaries and show what they can do. …A lot of these pieces that I make are to challenge myself and to get excited about the piece. What's the point if it's just a mash-up of the same thing? I work to do what I love – making beautiful jewellery, while always pushing the boundaries to show people what's out there and what they can do with the right skills and mindset. I think I want to do.
What are your frustrations with the industry?
Even big, established brands are becoming more mass-produced and producing the same thing over and over again. It worries me that there are only a few jewelry artists in the world who create one-of-a-kind pieces. As I myself focus on this field, I have always wanted to create one-of-a-kind bespoke pieces. I am really passionate about using a variety of gemstones other than the “big four” (i.e. diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires). Of course, I love those stones, but I think there are many beautiful gemstones out there, from opals to mandarin garnets. I feel that my job as an artist is to show that you can use this kind of gemstone to create beautiful works of art and don't have to worry about the price of the gemstone itself.
How important is functionality for fine jewelry?
Many people look at my work online or in pictures and think it's difficult to wear because of the size, but when you actually try it on, it's completely different. We design our pieces to fit snugly and be comfortable. I use the same concept with my earrings, which is why I use titanium for the larger pieces so they don't drag on your ears. Even when using gold, we try to make it as light and durable as possible. Along with comfort, you need to feel secure when you're wearing it instead of constantly touching it or constantly worrying to make sure it's there. I also feel that there are a lot of designers who design something and it looks great on paper, but they don't have the practical experience of how it works and how it's worn in real life. Masu. I don't make jewelry that should be kept in a safe. I make jewelry that people wear and love.
What is your favorite material to work with?
Rose Gold – I love the rich, warm tone and how it blends in with people's skin tones. To me, that's how gold should feel. However, I don't think he's bound to one material, especially he's one metal. It looks great with any color, so next to the rose gold I also mix in a lot of titanium to add a variety of colors to my pieces.
What is your favorite type of jewelry to design?
I've always said that earrings are the ultimate in design. It's fun to make something big and complicated while still being light. It's a lot of fun to design because of all the mechanics involved. When I create jewelry, I always start with a sketchbook. This allows you to exaggerate your concept, push the boundaries of what you're looking for, and disassemble components to see how they work before moving to metal.
What do you think about men's jewelry?
I am very interested in the fact that men are now allowed to wear jewelry and brooches in public. I think there is a hangover from the “macho” image that was prevalent in the 80's and 90's, especially in Hollywood. It's so refreshing to see that everything is changing now and everyone can wear what they want. As a designer, it's really refreshing to be able to design for different body types and types.
How would you describe your approach when working with precious gemstones?
When I started my studio, I wanted to push the boundaries of jewelry. I wanted to create jewelry art. All these works are unique and there are no copies. All items are unique and cannot be copied. I want to create pieces that tell a story that can be learned from jewelry. It's fun to be able to do that because most jewelry is boring. It's always the same thing. There is usually a ring of diamonds around the gemstone. I think we can do more. I think it's a designer's job to push the boundaries and show people what's possible with today's materials and technology.
What do you think is the biggest mistake people make when assessing the value of fine jewelry?
The most common misconception among the general public when it comes to jewelry is that price indicates quality. People look at expensive emeralds or very expensive diamonds in jewelry and assume that it is high quality jewelry. I don't see it that way. It's not just the gemstones in a piece of jewelry, it's the craftsmanship that goes into it, the quality of the design, and what the piece is trying to convey. I always try to encourage people to look at that side of things. Fine jewelry needs to tell a story and be more than just the cost or center stone. Every time you look at jewelry, you're sure to discover something new. Every time you look underneath your jewelry, you'll be a little moved by the tiny details that only you can see. That's really important to me.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
